Saturday, September 11, 2010

Kenya Trip - Day 14 (evening)

Dated: August 17th, 2010 (evening)

Location: Ewaso Nyiro River Camp, Mpala Wildlife Conservancy, Laikipia Valley

I was going to talk more about what happened with the woman and the buffalo but I think I just need more time to process it. Here's the summary though: Africa will never look like the United States. It's not coincidence that all of the most well-developed countries in the world are in the temperate climates; Africa is mankind's ideal range where human populations are kept in check by environmental factors while these temperate zones allow humans the ability to control and exploit natural resources most efficiently. Here in Africa, people are not so lucky; here the landscape controls them, not the other way around.

We were going to have one of K's mentors, a pastoralist specialist named Bilal Butt, lecture us but apparently a cyclist (carrying several crates of chickens on the back no doubt) swerved in front of Bilal's truck and lost control and Bilal hit him. The man was taken to the hospital by Bilal in Nanyuki but Bilal was unable to come and lecture (he had to deal with legal stuff (sometimes people want to sue in situations like this simply because they see someone is white)). Instead, a colleague of Lamine Sagna's named Jesse Njoka from the University of Nairobi lectured about a project of his concerning sustainable pastoralism.

It's been raining briefly every afternoon since last week but tonight it poured. A, Z, K, and L and the master's students got stuck in the mud next to a semi on the way back from Nanyuki and missed the lecture. My converter got fried so no more charge for my camera but I got to check email.


The hyenas were really bad--S, J, and I waited for an ascari for a while and then braved the darkness alone, even though we were sure we could hear the hyenas in the bushes around us. It was so scary.

Kenya Trip - Day 14 (pm)

Dated: August 17th, 2010 (pm)

Location: Ewaso Nyiro River Camp, Mpala Wildlife Conservancy, Laikipia Valley

I kind of thought this trip would have gotten its act together already (by 2 weeks in) but this morning was yet another mad scramble to find vehicles and drivers to get us all where we needed to get to. We were about to take off with about 13 of us crammed in 1 Land Cruiser with C (a master's student) driving when Julius pulled up with our new driver Edward. Apparently he was a replacement for one of our old drivers, "No Problem" Ben (known for drinking and driving and had recently been fired for getting into a knife fight at a bar). Edward drove us to the Ranch house to meet with R.

We stopped on the way to see the hippo pool. We could see the hippos' heads and they were huge!


R met us at the Ranch House with wet hair. She spouted logistics for the week at us and then Mike, the ranch manager and a Kenyan-born white, told us the history of Mpala and the area surrounding it. It was very interesting to hear about all of this from someone whose family was originally instated in the country during colonizations. At one point, Mike got pulled away and R encouraged us to look through the old books in the library. The books were very cool because a lot of them had been written/chosen by colonialists and ranchers. The house used to be owned by a prince and princess of Austria (they installed the water turbine in the 30s back when the ranch was a dairy) so many of the materials in the library are very old.

A few students went with the master's students to look at the Ranch House's borehole and water system. They came back saying there was some kind of disturbance in the village (there's a village connected to the Ranch House just as there is one connected to the MRC). They heard that there was a woman who had gone up the hill behind the Ranch House and was screaming and wouldn't come down. R said it might be a snake bite--those are common around here apparently (even though we've yet to see even one snake). Mike came back in and said we were going to see his ranch house (which is called Clifford). We all piled in the car and waited for a bit and then R got word that Mike had been detained by the village woman situation so we went back to the library so R could give us a bit more of the current situation and structural details of Mpala. During our discussion, Mike re-entered and asked if anyone had seen his notebook. One student handed it to him and he moved to walk out the door. Almost as an afterthought, he turned back to us and said, "What has happened is a woman has been killed by a buffalo."

He left a silent, shocked room. No one spoke for what seemed like a whole minute. No one could believe it--while we had sat amongst the books in the library, trying to understand this land, a woman had been killed not 200 m from where we sat by a creature we would have halted our Land Cruiser to snap photographs of. I don't know that any other occurence could have made me so acutely aware of the place of people in the chain of life here. Humans do not dominate this landscape.

Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Kenya Trip - Day 13

Dated: August 16th, 2010

Location: Ewaso Nyiro River Camp, Mpala Wildlife Conservancy, Laikipia Valley

I'm in W's group. I'm not sure this is where my interests lie--I thought I made enough of an effort to show a great deal of interest in both rangeland management and sustainability but maybe I was overlooked? They said you could request a switch, but it's such a small class, I don't want to be a stick in the mud or make somebody else move.

We ended up doing interviews for the morning. We split up to interview John the waiter and Apollo our research assistant. R and W were pretty vague about our goals so most of us took advantage of this as an opportunity to gain material for our personal projects. I was in the group that interviewed Apollo. I'm still formulating my project, so I let me group members ask most of the questions. Apollo, like Nicholas, is from Il Motiok, so I was able to ask him about how many livestock animals are killed by wildlife every year. He told me that last August a pack of wild dogs killed 8 of his own goats. I feel like there was a bit of a language barrier inhibiting us both ways. One of the student in my group tended to ask the most questions and often phrased them in a lengthy, drawn-out manner that I think severely affect Apollo's ability to grasp the question. When he didn't understand, Apollo's method was to cling to a few key words from the question. For example, the question would be "How do you think Ilmotiok's population growth and growth in education will impact further relations with Mpala? Do you think it will be more strenuous for both parties?" And Apollo would go on about how important growth is to Il Motiok and how good Mpala is for the group ranch as a whole. The other group interviewing John talked to him about the referendum to the constitution and literally brought to the table various booklets and a copy of the new constitution in Swahili. Apparently he was very excited about the changes coming to Kenya.

We had a lecture from Lamine Sagna, another professor from Princeton (but originally from Senegal). His lecture was about a course he was teaching entitled "Science, Technology and African Development." It was all about how Africa needs to catch up to the rest of the world developmentally. It was all very theoretical and even posed phases for what Africa should go through in order to become more developed. It seemed disconnected from the Africa I've seen so far--he tended to make lots of generalizations and avoided specific examples, but maybe I'd have to take the course. It was great to finally hear from a member of the African "elite."

Kenya Trip - Day 12 (pm)

Dated: August 15th, 2010 (pm)

Location: Ewaso Nyiro River Camp, Mpala Wildlife Conservancy, Laikipia Valley


We headed up to the MRC for Andy Hoffman's lecture. It was very interesting but very business- and profit-centered which caused a variety of reactions from the group. He had a lot of good quotes in his slides and I really liked that.

Logistics have finally been figured out for the last half of the trip: it appears that the undergrads will be broken up into groups: one will be social/interview work with W, rangeland monitoring with K, and sustainability challenges with the master's students. K had the actual lists though and she's still talking to the profs at the ranch house (she's even missed dinner) so I don't know which group I'm in.

I asked W about my dog project idea and he admitted that he didn't know how ti might be received. He did say that he thought the project might be too complicated and specific for this trip but it may be something to consider for the future. I think I can hold on to that.

Kenya Trip - Day 12 (am)

Dated: August 15th, 2010

Location: Ewaso Nyiro River Camp, Mpala Wildlife Conservancy, Laikipia Valley


We went on a game drive this morning. Someone had heard that there were lions and wild dogs on the north side of Mpala so we decided to go check it out. We found way more animals than we even saw on the sundowner. We saw plains zebras, impalas, and then came across the wild dogs. It was a pack of around 15-20 dogs.


The ascari tracked the wild dogs and then the cars followed them--they brought us so close! We spent a lot of time circling them and chasing them through the bush.


On the way from there to the borehole, we saw baboons, more impala, plains zebras, hartebeast, Grevy's zebra, and buffalo (spotted by Apollo from almost a mile away!). We were briefly stopped by a large herd of elephants. We were so close to the bull and near the babies I was sure he was going to charge!



The borehole was very cool--the pump drills into an aquifer that provides all the water to the ranch house and MRC (but they have to filter the water because it contains high levels of flouride). The trick with an aquifer is to keep the amount of water being taken from the aquifer at a sustainable rate so that it can be replenished by rainwater--this is exactly what the MRC master's students are here to help with. There's a whole group of Masai that live at the pump house up on the plateau and get paid to turn the pump machine on and off by Mpala. It's very interesting.

W leaves on Tuesday--I have to remember to ask him about my dog project idea--he's spent so much time interviewing people here at Mpala and at the group ranch he will probably have some good ideas about how it would be received and what sorts of challenges might arise.

After the game drive this morning, I'm covered in dust! There's literally a layer on all of my clothing and backpack. I can feel it coating every strand of my hair; it's even in my ears, eyes and nose! I need to clean my camera--there's a layer of it on the lens even!

Kenya Trip - Day 11 (pm)

Dated: August 14th, 2010

Location: Ewaso Nyiro River Camp, Mpala Wildlife Conservancy, Laikipia Valley


We are now halfway through our time here in Africa. It's crazy how time has flown. The other day, someone figured out that it costs the Graham Institute $.03 a second for each of us to be here. That's crazy, too.

The professor J's lecture was very interesting, if depressing. It was supposed to be about disease ecology but for some reason it ended up being about how extinction dooms an unfathomable percent of the species of the world. It was really depressing to hear how many frog species have gone extinct from the chrytid fungus--I thought of the Blue Jeans frog at RaƱa Roja Beach in Panama and wondered if it might still be there, even though only 2 years have passed since I was last there.

I got to charge almost 3 batteries during the lecture (courtesy of a broken projector). After the lecture, we went to say hi to C and K's friend, a researcher named Andrea who is studying parasite loads in Grant's gazelles (apparently they have parasite numbers that would kill most other species but no one knows why). We got to watch her take the feces from its raw form to a microscope slide so we could see the parasite eggs. It was very cool and complicated but it looked like Andrea had a pretty sweet deal, working with such cool animals, not to mention playing with poop all day. She seemed less than enthused though. K did mention that Andrea's been working in Africa with monkeys for a long time--maybe she finds non-primates boring.

After lunch, W talked about his research which has involved talking to people in various capacities in and around the ranch, trying to gain a comprehensive picture of the social structure here and trying to put together an ethnography of Mpala. He talked a lot about Nicholas' village of Il Motiok.

He mentioned that at the beginning of the summer, he and K heard about a leopard that was killing cattle. The group ranch did as they are required by Kenyan law and called KWS (Kenya Wildlife Service) to capture and relocate the animal. It took KWS 6 days to get out there and in those six days, 12 cattle and 5 dogs were killed. KWS threw a dead dog in a cage for bait and caught the leopard. KWS was going to relocate it but the animal was dead the next morning. Initially, it was thought that the leopard had been killed by the cage but as the villagers were skinning the animal (all the skins go to a vault in Nairobi to prevent them from entering the black market), they discovered that the animal had actually been stabbed several times by a spear. There was an outcry in the village--they see this as a potentially hurting their relations with Mpala--but many proclaimed that they were happy that the leopard was dead. I found this, along with another story about a man losing 2 of his 3 cattle to a lion just a few weeks ago to a single lion attack. It was very sad, considering that these cattle are the entire livelihood of many of the people of Il Motiok, but it got me thinking about Laurie Marker (of the Cheetah Conservation Fund) and her work with lion-chasing dog packs given (like micro-financing) to villagers to protect their herds. I started thinking that this would be cool project to see if it could work here.

After R's colonialism and disease ecology lectures (we learned about Q fever and how it will affect our ability to see a cattle dip (kills all the ticks on the cattle; without it all the ranch's cattle would die)), I started asking about this potential project. R was surprised--she said she thought for sure I would be doing a multimedia project. It's funny though--in any other academic situation, I would be looking for any way to turn my final exam into a video project but now I feel like I'd do anything to make this a solidly, unartful and academic one.

We had a huge campfire/party with lots of people from all over Mpala and I got to run my idea by a lot of different people. One person was able to tell me offhand that having one untrained dog barking in the boma reduces predation already by 35%. This is a pretty impressive statistic I'd definitely have to find some solid support for that when I get back home before the conference. I was also told that domestic dogs attract African wild dogs and this could be a problem considering that wild dogs are one of the biggest predators of livestock and I know that these livestock dogs are effective against big cats, but I don't know how they react to the canine variety of predator.

While I mulled this over, someone brought out marshmellows, chocolate, and graham crackers. I was so excited for s'mores but we had to find our own roasting utensils in the bush--and let me tell you, finding a marshmellow stick in Africa is hard because every single tree and bush is covered in thorns! I was excited to eat chocolate and marshmellow for the first time in 2 weeks, but my stomach kind of balked; everything tasted extra sugar and my belly was like "Refined sugar? What?" Regardless, I managed to scarf down 2 even though I was sure I'd get through 4. Call me crazy, but maybe this will cut down on my "sugar whiplash" when I get home.

If the $.03/second is true, than this journal entry (written from 10:35pm to 11:13pm., lasting approximately 38 min) cost $68.40. Crazy.

Kenya Trip - Day 11 (am)

Dated: August 14th, 2010 (am)

Location: Mpala Research Center, Mpala Wildlife Conservancy, Laikipia Valley

Everyone is forming groups for the class project today and I'm still not completely sure what I would like to study. I really need to start writing out a list and try to narrow it down to my own topic or start talking to other groups about their ideas and possibly joining up.

We're at the MRC this morning (getting to charge my camera finally--yay!) to hear the professor J lecture (and try to make sense of the dikdik data from yesterday--good luck ;P Our chameleon friend is here too--its living in an outside enclosure by the library. She looks very happy--at least we won't have to worry about her getting eaten!